Jun 26, 2024 9 min read Travel Tales

Luxury Road Trip Through Portugal: From Lisbon to Vidago, Douro Valley & Serra da Estrela

Vidago Palace Hotel Entrance - Photo by Marcelo Santos / Unsplash

We were craving for this moment as a couple: a trip together after months apart and enjoying each other away from the routine of home duties. As we couldn't leave the boundaries of Portugal for these vacations, we opted for a road trip within borders. But it wasn't a pity trip at all: it was one of the most exciting journeys!

Portugal has a lot to offer in luxury tourism and we wanted to deep dive North of Algarve. We opted to stay in Vidago (new for both of us) and Serra da Estrela (we had been together once in 2020).

We left Algarve and stayed for a couple of days in Lisbon for bureaucracy matters and errands we had to do in the city we called home for almost 5 years between 2017 and 2022.

We opted to stay at Dom Pedro Lisboa, a new hotel to us. It's a bit old school, with great service - reminded us of Table Bay Hotel in Cape Town in that regard - and best of all: the location. Right in front of Amoreiras Towers and Shopping Center, where we can meet our lawyers and do a bit of shopping. It also has a gym, a swimming pool, jacuzzi and sauna which we made sure to use everyday.

We caught the most fabulous sunny Spring weather whilst in Lisbon. That is how we chose to have one of our lunches at Izanagi just under the red iron bridge 25 de Abril. It was a delight to have miso soup and yakitori... it had been a long time since we had been at a Japanese(-inspired) restaurant. I just don't understand the pancetta over the asparagus, such a beautiful vegetable doesn't need all that.

One of our other meals was at one of the Honest Greens franchises, by Amoreiras. Funny enough, they are all the rage in Lisbon right now but this one was almost empty when we went. It showcases vegetables and legumes like you will not easily find in, say, Algarve, a land of fish and meat lovers. We opted for a copious pumpkin and goat salad and roast chicken, with a side of artichoke. We are true vegetable lovers (not the "I only eat soup to get my vegetables in" kind) and this is the place for vegetable lovers.

VISEU

We left Lisbon in the morning after and headed to Vidago in the northern part of Portugal. It was a pleasant 4-hour ride. The further North you go, the more I love Portugal, I must say. The lush greens, the rivers, the people. Our hearts were growing at each kilometre. We did a lunch stop by Viseu, a new city for both of us. It was a sunny beautiful day with people gathered around church for a wedding and children running around.

But we weren't there for that wedding but to discover the restaurant Flora Wine & Dine.

It is a beautiful and simply decorated small restaurant run by a couple, with the most inspiring food. We went for the tasting menu and it is one to rave forever, showcasing the best produce of the region (also nice to stir away from Algarvian's cuisine to change the air). A divine experience!

With our bellies and hearts full we continued our journey north upon arriving to Vidago. And that is when the drama started.

VIDAGO

We arrived at the stunning Vidago Palace Hotel in the afternoon on a Sunday. There were a few families strolling around the gardens and golfers starting to sit down for their sundowners. As we arrived we felt a warm welcome mixed with a bit of panic. Our room wasn't ready. And not because it wasn't clean: they could not open the door since the staff cleaned after the previous guests left. They told us to wait in the tea room and have anything on the house. That it would be just 15 minutes. We settled in the tea room with rooibos tea and homemade cookies when we saw the firemen arrive. Then lots of banging. They were trying to access a room through the window. Our room! And so 15 minutes of waiting turned into 30, 45, 60 minutes... 4 hours! We were deep into the evening when we were finally taken to our room, that they had managed to open... from the inside, to fix the door. Alas, they had to break a glass in the suite's living room (we would not see it if they had not showed it to us!) so they told us they would transfer us to another room. And that is how we stay in two different Grand Suites at the Vidago Hotel Palace, knowing these are the central suites of the hotel and there are only 3 of those in the world. Worth the wait?

But this was just an episode to remember in the grand scheme of things: our stay at the Palace was just dreamy. The staff is superb and the place is just gorgeous. This hotel was set up for the last Portuguese King alas it was inaugurated a few days after he was murdered and a Republic was established in Portugal, so he never saw it to completion. What we did during our stay:

we had a meal at Salão Nobre, their Michelin Guide restaurant
we also had a meal at their Garrafeira, a more laidback experience with a respectable wine collection
we went to their stunning gym almost every day
we got massages at their thermal Spa, by Clarins
we spend lots of time sipping tea and reading in their tea room
and we went on a historical and unique tour of Vidago with a 1930s Manchester

Visiting Vidago was quite a time travelling journey. The small town had many aspects that made it popular a 100 years ago: it has a train station, thermal waters, beautiful gardens and lodges. But nowadays it is just the mirror of what it once was, with many abandoned buildings and hotels and a train station that is no more. You cannot help but imagine what it could be if it is revamped and there is investment again and more access for people who also travel without a car. Vidago deserves it, so it doesn't incur the risk of becoming a place from the past.

CHAVES

Whilst staying at Vidago, we went a few kilometres north to the ex-roman city of Chaves, just 10 kms south of the border with Spain. What a stunning little town, also new for both of us.

While visiting Chaves, we delighted into the northern cuisine at the restaurant Biclaque Trajano. A stunning delight.

We felt so saddened when we had to leave and regretted not booking a longer stay, alas the next journey was awaiting for us.

DOURO VALLEY - PINHÃO

We started heading south, to the Douro Valley region. It is my favourite place in Portugal (with Madeira) and one of Bruno's favourite places as well. We love the lush mountains, the river, the fjords, the wineries, the romance, the people, the food, the grape nectar. It is an enchanting region that you can visit through many angles and from both banks. In the past we had been in Peso de Régua (in 2018 - we also ran a mini-marathon whilst there!) and in Paiva (in 2019 - when we did the Paiva walkways).

This time around we ventured to Pinhão, our stop for lunch, before heading to Serra da Estrela. We chose to stop at Quinta do Bomfim, a Symington Family Estate (we had been at their Graham's in Porto in 2018 for a stunning wine tour and culinary experience at restaurant Vinum).

We had lunch at their restaurant Bomfim 1896 with Pedro Lemos.

After such a copious and beautiful meal, we were ready for the now closer journey to the central mountains of Portugal.

SERRA DA ESTRELA - MANTEIGAS & PASSADIÇOS DO MONDEGO

The second part of our holidays was spent in Serra da Estrela, at Casa de São Lourenço, a Burel Design Hotel. We had previously stayed at their sister hotel Casa das Penhas Douradas in 2020 and decided for the upgrade this time after a great first experience.

*A remarkable photo taken by Bruno in 2020 at Casa das Penhas Douradas*

Once again, we were welcomed with attentiveness and lots of food, a way to our heart. Our panoramic room was on the ground floor - we had hopes for the balcony room they showcase a lot alas there was no more availability - but it was still a beautiful room that we enjoyed very much. Also, it was very close to the spa and the swimming pool, where we spent most of our resting time!

Whilst staying in Manteigas, we decided to venture into hiking at the recently inaugurated Passadiços do Mondêgo (Walkways) in Guarda (around an hour away from our hotel).

The walkway is a 11.8 km hike with a 900m elevation at its highest points. We went on a very cold day of May - the temperatures plummeted in the country very suddenly - and it was around 3 degrees that morning and around 9 degrees by 12pm-noon. We only saw a dozen people for the whole 4 hours of hiking, it was mesmerising to enjoy nature on our own, in moments of chat and moments of silence but pushing our bodies through.

Although beautiful and a true connection with nature, this hike was one of the most physically-challenging ever, especially with all the elevation! Afterwards we could not wait to head to the indoors heated swimming pool back at Casa de São Lourenço and book a hot stone massage at their spa.

One of our last stops in Manteigas was at the Burel Factory, a moment to learn about the heritage textile tradition of the region and the special fabric of woven wool they have created called Burel. Burel is quite intricate and a centenary refined art that allows to keep warms and soundproofing as well. As part of the same group, our hotel was heavily and beautifully decorated with burel elements which turned it cosy.

Unfortunately, our trip came to an end. As much as we loved every moment of it and also love going back to our home, we wish we could have extended both stays as they were both so different yet memorable.

If you like this Portugal guide, check some of our other trips in Cape Town, South Africa, Tanzania (Safari & Zanzibar) and Helsinki, Finland.